We usually hike in the California Sierras where we have to carry everything including a lot of freeze dried food. For us hiking in the Alps is called "Gourmet Hiking", because we pass so many huts with delicious local food.
This desire to get some food variety influenced our choice for the route. The huts without road access tend to be more rustic and serene, but have limited food variety. The huts along our route were in general more accessible and most every other night we stayed in a village, which gave us more food variety.
Day 1, July 14, 2015, section 28, start Filzmoos, end Hofpuergelhuette, 17 km, 1550 m elevation
Filzmoos to Hofpuergelhuette
We chose to start in Filzmoos, the begin of section 28, and end our first day at the Hofpürgelhütte. It had rained the night before and everything was lush and green. Green flash! So many flowers! Big contrast when coming from drought ridden California. It felt and smelled awesome.
Green Flash
By noon we arrived at the Bachalm and had a hearty lunch with a refreshing Radler (Beer with Lemonade).
Radler
The highest point along the route was the Gipfelkreuz near the Sulzenschneid where we met two women from upstate New York. I noticed the Adirondacks hat and approached them, because that was our favorite local hiking place when we lived there about 20 years ago. The duo was hiking a loop around the Dachstein, which sounded like a great tour. Maybe next time we'll try that too.
Turtle encounters trail obstacles
Horses grazing
We were not used to the very steep trails (probably > 30% grades) Often it felt like going straight up and down. We are spoiled from our JMT hikes on nicely 15% graded trails. Luckily we had gotten us some cake from the local bakery in Filzmoos, which turned out to be a lifesaver because on the second half of the trail was a long stretch without an opportunity for food and refreshments. We were feeding on views instead. On the last two kilometers we ran out of water too, because we had forgotten to refill at the last hut.
Trailhead needs a rest
We were exhausted but happy when we finally arrived at the Hofpuergelhuette. The name "huette" is somewhat misleading. The chalet is quite big.
Hofpuergelhuette - finally
Day 2, July 15, section 29, start Hofpuergelhuette, end St. Martin, 21 km, 970 m elevation
Hofpuergelhuette to St. Martin
The next day we were off to an early start as we had a long way ahead of us with a big climb.
Good morning
I was still sore from the previous day.
Turtle at the Sulzkaralm, the cheeses are awesome here
We arrived at the Sulzkaralm well before lunchtime. Since there were no more huts we would reach before lunch time we asked to have some cheese and bread packed up for later. We were glad we did but more about that later. The Sulzkaralm was so nice with lots of animals and everybody was super friendly. The artisan cheeses they packed us turned out to be amazing!
We then continued but shortly after the unmaintained Elmaualm our hike got into trouble. The trail markers ended in nowhere and we found ourselves going in circles around a knoll. We double checked the map, trail description and signs, but the trail vanished again. Argh! Calm down, you are on vacation :-) We gave up on the Almenweg for the day and took a different route. Luckily we had the bread and cheese from the Sulzkaralm. What a delicious lunch!
After lunch we found a trail to connect back to the Langeggsattel, but because it was too late for the full trail we returned to our car via the Wanderbus (hiking bus) and drove to St. Martin, where we stayed at House Elisabeth.
Day 3, July 16, section 30, start St. Martin, end Hackel Huette, 13 km, 1100 m elevation
St Martin to Hackel Huette
The shortened hike yesterday helped. We were full of energy when we left St. Martin. The breakfast at the House Elisabeth helped too. What a wonderful accommodation!
Buttermilk
Of course at the Buttermilchalm we had to have Buttermilk. It got me hooked.
Dessert at the Karalm
Short stop at the cute Koreinalm
Suddenly there are Almenweg benches everywhere
At the Hackel Huette we were the only overnight guests. What a difference to the Hofpuergelhuette, which had been huge and super busy. And the hosts were so nice.
View from the Hackel Huette
It turned out to be an awesome evening watching a thunderstorm that was building right in front of us. What a show!
So many lightning flashes, I was able to catch one with the phone camera
Day 4, July 17, section 31, start Hackel Huette, end Pfarrwerfen, 15 km, 800 m elevation
Hackel Huette to Pfarrwerfen
Departing from the Heinrich Hackel Huette meant tackling a long steep downhill section followed by a steep uphill stretch. Luckily, the exhausted hikers found yummy local specialties at the Elmaualm and the Mahdeggalm.
Nice spot for a little rest
At the Elmaualm
Close to Pfarrwerfen, we almost got lost again but eventually found the trail - probably with a few km detour.
After being lost - which way?
In Pfarrwerfen we stayed at the Reitsamer Hof, which was right on the trail and had one of the best ice cream desserts of the whole trip.
Dessert, more dessert, ...
Day 5, July 18, section 1, start Pfarrwerfen, end Arthurhaus, 11 km, 1250 m elevation
Pfarrwerfen to Arthurhaus
The hike from Pfarrwerfen to the Arthurhaus was mostly through forest up very gentle grades. Maybe I was a little spoiled from the prior days, but overall it was probably the least interesting section of the trip. But once the Hochkoenig got into view it was very scenic.
Hochkoenig
We arrived at the Arthurhaus and had lunch at the Sennerei. Another place with awesome cheese, buttermilk, and other delicacies.
Buttermilk
Cheese and dessert (no, this is not a Bratwurst)
Day 6, July 19, start Arthurhaus, end Matrashaus, 9 km, 1600 m elevation
For several days we were not sure if we could hike up on the Hochkoenig, because the weather forecast had predicted thunderstorms starting around noon for that day. However, the evening before our Hochkoenig adventure the forecast looked promising. Yeah! We left the Arthurhaus at about 6:30 am and were delighted that the few clouds that hung around cleared away.
The hike was awesome! So often the pictures don't do the reality justice.
The "Bratwurst" from yesterday, with poppy seeds and nuts.
On the way we encountered a Chamois and were surprised by the sound. You can't see much on the video but you can hear it.
Getting closer, the Matrashaus comes into view
The last section on ladders
We made it!
Everything up here has to be brought up by helicopter, unbelievable! Over the course of the day several other small hiking groups arrived and we had a friendly group for dinner.
Day 7, July 20, return from Matrashaus to Arthurhaus
The next morning was awesome. It had rained over night and early in the morning the summit was in clouds, then suddenly the sun came through.
Morning on the Hochkoenig
View of the glaciers
Turtle is scared of heights and had been very worried the whole day and night about the hike down. There were some steep sections (e.g. Kniebeisser) which are scary for someone with a fear of heights. Also, some sections of the trail used to be secured by ropes, but somebody had cut and taken them. Who does that?!
Turtle made it through the Kniebeisser
We made it down fine and had a last stop at the Mitterfeldalm. The Topfenstrudel (local cheesecake) is out of this world amazing! If we would go up again, we would start our hike up Hochkoenig from here instead of the Arthurhaus because it saves about 40 min in the morning. Besides we heard that this Alm has great food and is newly remodeled with very nice sleeping quarters.
Last stop at the MItterfeldalm
From the Arthurhaus we took the bus to the Hotel Sonnenhof where we stayed for the night before returning the next day to our car in St. Martin via bus and taxi.
No comments:
Post a Comment